Only my SECOND coat ever !!
I'm just really excited that I finished it ! I mean the reason that I rarely ever sew coats is because of the time that it takes ! This one took me about two weeks . I worked on it about two hours a day after work.
Ok, lets get into the process !
I Chose Vogue 8940 View C:
There honestly aren't many men patterns out there, much less men's COAT patterns but this one really caught my eye ! I really loved the double breast and collar details, I thought it would look great on my hubby! .
Both my husband and I really need new winter coats . I think we have literally had the same coats for about 5 years. It just hasn't been on the top of our "Things to Purchase" list . It continued to fit so we just continued to wear them . This year however, I have decided to make more things that I/We need . Things that will maximize my wardrobe and not just add to it . I'm slowly migrating out of the first stage of sewing where you just want to make it because its pretty . Ive spent the first few years experimenting and getting better at sewing but I wasn't super focused on maximizing my wardrobe . Sewing pieces that added to or complimented other pieces . Anyone else had this phase or is it just me ? Ive been sewing for 4 solid years now and I feel like I am starting to mature more as a sewer . So this is the natural next step .
First up Coats !
First up Coats !
YAY!! Another opportunity to sew for the hubby *side eyes* ( See other MensWear Post ) .
No in all seriousness I do enjoy sewing for my husband , because he challenges me . I tell him all the time that his questions along the way always floor me because he has picked up so many sewing "terms". He asked questions along the way like " Are you going to add any top stitching to help lay down the collar!?" "What type of lining are you planning on using? " .....A lot of the questions really made me laugh because it shows just how much he's been paying attention ., then I went right back to being annoyed ! :)
The fabric that I used was a Wool/Knit , it felt almost like a scuba knit with a Wool feel. I purchased it from Fine Fabrics in Norcross Georgia . OMG! If you have never been to this place .. you MUST take a trip . I live in Bimringham , AL which is about a hour and a half from there . I make it a point to travel there once a month to stock up! I visited fine fabrics on the way back from a soccer trip this time . I already had in mind that I wanted to make a coat for him so I was looking for wool or a wool blend. This fabric felt so smooth to the touch and had a really lofty drape . I knew I could get a sleek look out of this fabric . I ended up taking the last on the bolt . Husband loved it so we where a go !
Similar fabric can be found here
Similar fabric can be found here
I made a muslin first to check fit and length. I ended up taking about 4 inches out of the body and 2 inches from the arms . I adjusted this on the pattern pieces and cut my fabric !
The pattern instructions are definitely written for the advance sewer. You should have a general knowledge of welt pockets and bagging lining because there are not many instructions given .
The two side pockets where flap pockets. these where fairly easy
The pattern instructons made it seem like two inside pockets where to be sewn but as you read further down it appeared that only one was needed. I decided to go ahead and make both.
I really have a lot of practicing to do on welt pockets .
They came out decent but they gape open a bit and they shouldn't.
"What type of shoulder pads are you using ? I don't want to look like a soldier !"
I had previously purchased 1/2 shoulder pads from Joann's but quickly realize that those wouldn't work . I decided to make my own. First I drew the basic shape by placing a piece of paper over his shoulder. I began 1' from the bottom of his neck and drew down toward his shoulder end . I was sure to cover the dips where the shoulder and chest meet . I mimicked the shape on the backside of the shoulder and this it how my shape came out .
I used some fleece that I had purchased for another project to make the shoulder pads. I built the shoulder pads up by slowing decreasing the size of the original shape. I was going for a natural shaping of the shoulders so I didn't want to build it up to thick. I was sure to extend the shape out about a 1/2 inch past the end of his shoulder . Once I go the shape I wanted I hand stitched across the Fleece pieces and cut another piece ( original size) to sandwich the pieces together . I finished my using my serger to stitch around the perimeter .
I used my ironing ham to shape the shoulder pads.
Here is a quick look at the interfacing and how I laid the shoulder pads and sleeve heads in .
Top stitching was another Achilles Heel of mine . The fabric got really thick in places and even tho I trimmed back the seems it still was tough in places. Overall I really like how it turned out !
I love how the coat tuned out and he was so digging it .
I used these bone look buttons that I purchased from Joann's
The pattern calls for smaller buttons for the pockets but I decided to use the same size for all buttons .
Alright so his jacket is done and now I get to move on to mine !!!
Until Next Time !!